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With Ruth Reichl’s giant chocolate cake (actual name) to soothe back-to-school stresses.
Hello from Atlanta, where school started a month ago and we are deep into packing lunches, working hard and trying to ignore the recent courthouse shenanigans that seem to keep Georgia on everybody’s mind.
We are also still mourning our terrible peach season. By some estimates, nearly 95 percent of the crop was lost largely because of a hard and untimely freeze.
I get into peach beefs all the time with friends from New Jersey and California and Colorado, all parts of the country where I have either lived or visited family on a regular basis. Your peaches are terrific, sure. But we Georgians have 40 commercial varieties, all of them ripening to a deep sugary tang under the hot Southern sun. They fill my counter every summer. Usually.
I cherished the few peaches I did get, even though they were crazy expensive and weren’t as sweet or as ripe as usual. The brilliant Ligaya Mishan, a columnist for The New York Times Magazine, came to my rescue with a recipe to grill them (above). A little olive oil and some heat transforms the flesh into a soft, sugary base for a drift of cream, a few blueberries and dukkah, the spicy, seedy secret weapon you should always keep in your kitchen.
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